Shoemaker Equipment Checklist

As mentioned in previous posts, one thing that I have noticed since I started this whole journey is how hard it is to find tools, resources, and supplies, especially in Ireland.

I’m starting from scratch, so I’m researching and purchasing everything for the first time. Most of the general items I have ordered have been from Amazon and Etsy, but the more specific shoemaking tools have been sourced and ordered from The Netherlands and Poland. The list below will help you get started, and as time goes on and I have a chance to try out the tools I have ordered, I will put together a downloadable shoemaker equipment checklist with links to suppliers.

For now, this will be a living page that is constantly updated.

The complete shoemaker equipment checklist for beginners

This checklist was designed for deconstruction and reconstruction and includes all the must-have tools and materials to create your own custom sneakers.

Shoemaker Tools

Small Hammer: Used for lasting.

Leather Scissors: Used for cutting leather.

Lasting Pliers: Used for lasting. Sometimes called lasting pincers.

Skiving Knife: Hand skiver used to thin out overlapping leather edges. Sometimes called halter knife.

Precision Knife: Used for cutting leathers.

Thread Cutter: Small scissors to cut threads.

Heat Removable Pens: Used for marking out patterns. Markings are removed with heat.

Bone Folder: Used to remove soles.

Seam Ripper: Used ripping seams.

Tape Measure: Used for measuring.

Nails: Used for lasting. 20mm – 26mm.

Cutting Mat: Used for protecting your workspace while cutting.

Hole Punch Set: Used for eyelets and decorative holes.

Dremel Hand Tool: Used for sanding and preparing soles.

Heat Gun with Temperature Control: Used for heating heel counters and applying upper reinforcements.

Shoemaker Supplies

Donor Shoes: Always purchase originals. Can also be used for pattern making as well as soles.

Shoe Lasts: Lasts are plastic molds that determine the shape and size of your shoes. Each silhouette and size uses a unique last. Lasts come in two variations V-Hinge and Tendo Hinge. When using V-Hinge lasts a last stand will be required to ‘break’ the last.

Shoe Pattern: Each pattern is she size specific. Can be purchased, or created during the deconstruction stage of your donor shoes.

Leather: Suitable leather for shoemaking. Upper leather 1.2mm – 1.6mm. Lining leather 0.8mm – 1mm.

Thread: For stitching upper components together.

Glue: Renia Colle De Cologne Multi-Purpose Adhesive is a popular choice.

Shoe Components

Toe Stiffner: Thermoplastic material with an adhesive layer on both sides. The reinforcement is 0.6mm thick and provides strength and support to the toe box. Once heated to a temperature of 80 degrees or higher, the material can be formed to the desired shape.

Heel Reinforcement: Thermoplastic material with an adhesive layer on both sides. The reinforcement is 1.1mm thick and provides strength and support to the toe box. Once heated to a temperature of 80 degrees or higher, the material can be formed to the desired shape.

Foam: Various weights of foam for tongue, heel, and upper lining.

Lasting Board: Used to last the shoes. Sometimes called midsole board.

Sewing Machine

Post Bed Sewing Machine: I have read that you can use a heavy-duty domestic machine but I’m still sceptical. If at all possible use a wheel-fed, single needle, post bed sewing machine. The post bed sewing machine allows access to hard-to-reach areas.

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Partnerships

I’m very open to partnerships, so if you are a supplier of shoemaking tools, materials, or products and would like to partner up to promote them through our various social channels, feel free to get in touch.

email: partnerships@somy.ie